Over the past week so much has happened. When I first arrived in Mumbai we stayed way up in Juhu, which is kind of the equivalent of being in northern Etobicoke, for those who know Toronto. It took an hour by bus to get into the “downtown” areas – Colaba, Fort, and Churchgate. And it usually took more than that to return. However, it was a good way to get familiar with the lay of the land.

Snapshot 1:

20 Jan – From the magnificent Victoria Station (now CST Station) I purchase a ticket for Lower Parel, which is close to Worli, the place I actually want to go to. I'm told go to platforms 5, 6 or 7, but because of other information, I wind up on a train from platform 4, going to Parel. A woman tells me she'll help me out. So, standing with the women close to the door of the car, I keep a watch on this kind woman. Women get in and out, and it gets increasingly crowded. I'm lucky to have a standing space near the door. As we pull out from a station, the kind woman turns to me and tells me that the next stop is Parel, and to make sure to get out. She says something else, I don't really hear it, but the general gist is that I'm going to have to go for it.

Sure enough, the train pulls up, and women on the platform swarm on. I have to charge off. It's a total crunch and sea of women. Basically all I had to do was force my weight in the direction I wanted to go. Somehow my feet landed on the ground, with the rest of my body and belongings attached on top. And it was all completely impersonal and safe.

15 Jan – Maureen and I go to Elephanta Island. After being harassed/approached by travel agents at the Gateway of India, we finally get a ticket for the ferry, and head out. The boat ride is beautiful – lots of open sea, passing large and small boats. It's very foggy/smoggy though. We arrive at Elephanta, and climb through two other boats in order to get to the landing. I guess there's not really enough docking space. We pay the 8 rupees to take the train across a hot stretch, but no one checks our tickets. We wander through the many stalls, leisurely making our way up the 120 odd stairs to get to the cave. The cave is beautiful – cool temperature, huge sculptures that depict an early civilization's beliefs and abilities in an amazingly awesome (in the real meaning of the word) way. You can read more about it at http://www.templenet.com/Maharashtra/elephanta.html.

It was a leisurely afternoon—walking, sitting, chatting, lunching, and returning on the ferry. The ferry ride was great, but then docking was something else. I honestly don't know how others do it. We had to boat hop through at least 4 other boats, and then finally got to a set of slippery and narrow stairs leading to the landing. Maureen and I were among the last, and when it came our turn to leap onto the stairs I just couldn't do it without any help. People getting on were streaming past and blocking a clear path. If I missed it meant a narrow plunge into the water, which wasn't a great alternative. At last a young man behind us offered to leap onto the stairs and help us. Relieved, we took his hands and scrambled up the stairs. So far that's the most frightening moment.

See photos from Elephanta. Sorry, none for the crowded train.

Take care Everyone –

Ellen